Marina Park Hotel
Last night we ate ashore at Centro Dragao do Mar de Arte e Cultural. This is a large complex including a library cinema, planetarium, theatre with numerous shops and restaurants. It is very popular and in complete contrast to it's run down surroundings.
Today Tomas left to countinue his travels in the interior of Brazil and Venezuela. Bon voyage Tomas!
I decided to visit friends in Toronto for a few days between 7-13 February. There is free WiFi in the marina so I was able to book flights without leaving the boat. I will be flying GOL to Sao Paulo and then Air Canada to Toronto. GOL's website would not accept foreign cards and asked me to call. It was arranged that I could pay in person at Fortaleza airport.
Today Tomas left to countinue his travels in the interior of Brazil and Venezuela. Bon voyage Tomas!
I decided to visit friends in Toronto for a few days between 7-13 February. There is free WiFi in the marina so I was able to book flights without leaving the boat. I will be flying GOL to Sao Paulo and then Air Canada to Toronto. GOL's website would not accept foreign cards and asked me to call. It was arranged that I could pay in person at Fortaleza airport.
Marina Park Hotel
Today we had to attend to Brazilian entry formalities.
Our pilot book suggests that local buses be used to visit the offices required but the Hotel reception strongly advised against using buses. The bus stop across the road from the hotel is adjacent to a Favela.
Before setting out I checked the latest government advice on travel within Brazil. The Foreign Office, the U.S. State Department and the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs are quite unanimous on the dangers of travel within Brazil. There are even warnings about piracy off the Brazilian coast.
We decided to get a taxi. First stop was the Policia Federal who deal with immigration. The office was closed but after about 20 minutes they arrived. Our details were taken and entry stamps put in our passports. They seemed to be well funded with modern computers and office equipment. Both our passports were scanned and all details including photos were recorded on their national database.
The Port of Fortaleza is bordered by a Favela so we retained the taxi who then took us a mile or so further to visit Port Health and Customs.
At health they wanted to see evidence of vaccination against yellow fever. At customs we queued with truck drivers waiting to exit the port. Due to a photo copy machine failure we were on the verge of being asked to return later but one of the drivers had previously worked with photo copiers and stepped in to very quickly fix it.
Customs were particularly interested in the value of Kiriwina. I made a declaration and was issued a temporary import permit with notification that an officer would visit Kiriwina the following day.
Our final stop was the Capitania dos Portos. This was in fact the Brazilian Navy who are responsible for all matters maritime including recreational boating. The office was located between the port and the city centre behind a high security fence with a Favela across the road. We were told to wait in the taxi while the driver sought entry. When a sentry opened the gate we were told to run quickly from the taxi to the gate. All the naval personnel carried sidearms and I wondered what the fuss was about.
We were required to state our next port in Brazil and cannot deviate without risking heavy fines.
Throughout the formalities all the staff we dealt with were very friendly and helpful. The whole process took about three hours and will more or less be repeated when we leave.
On the way back we stopped at a branch of Banco do Brasil to get some cash. There were long queues and we could only one machine accepted foreign cards. There were at least two armed security guards wearing bullet proof vests. After 22:00 withdrawals are limited to small amounts to stop card thieves from double dipping around midnight. There are around 3.5 Brazilian Reals to the pound.
With all the dire warnings about crime I was initially hesitant about leaving the hotel complex. Tomas was less worried and walked around town by himself at night. The Marina Park Hotel has an off menu restaurant, a buffet restaurant and two snack bars. I noticed that many Brazilian guests did not leave the hotel except on organised excursions.
Our pilot book suggests that local buses be used to visit the offices required but the Hotel reception strongly advised against using buses. The bus stop across the road from the hotel is adjacent to a Favela.
Before setting out I checked the latest government advice on travel within Brazil. The Foreign Office, the U.S. State Department and the Australian Department of Foreign Affairs are quite unanimous on the dangers of travel within Brazil. There are even warnings about piracy off the Brazilian coast.
We decided to get a taxi. First stop was the Policia Federal who deal with immigration. The office was closed but after about 20 minutes they arrived. Our details were taken and entry stamps put in our passports. They seemed to be well funded with modern computers and office equipment. Both our passports were scanned and all details including photos were recorded on their national database.
The Port of Fortaleza is bordered by a Favela so we retained the taxi who then took us a mile or so further to visit Port Health and Customs.
At health they wanted to see evidence of vaccination against yellow fever. At customs we queued with truck drivers waiting to exit the port. Due to a photo copy machine failure we were on the verge of being asked to return later but one of the drivers had previously worked with photo copiers and stepped in to very quickly fix it.
Customs were particularly interested in the value of Kiriwina. I made a declaration and was issued a temporary import permit with notification that an officer would visit Kiriwina the following day.
Our final stop was the Capitania dos Portos. This was in fact the Brazilian Navy who are responsible for all matters maritime including recreational boating. The office was located between the port and the city centre behind a high security fence with a Favela across the road. We were told to wait in the taxi while the driver sought entry. When a sentry opened the gate we were told to run quickly from the taxi to the gate. All the naval personnel carried sidearms and I wondered what the fuss was about.
We were required to state our next port in Brazil and cannot deviate without risking heavy fines.
Throughout the formalities all the staff we dealt with were very friendly and helpful. The whole process took about three hours and will more or less be repeated when we leave.
On the way back we stopped at a branch of Banco do Brasil to get some cash. There were long queues and we could only one machine accepted foreign cards. There were at least two armed security guards wearing bullet proof vests. After 22:00 withdrawals are limited to small amounts to stop card thieves from double dipping around midnight. There are around 3.5 Brazilian Reals to the pound.
With all the dire warnings about crime I was initially hesitant about leaving the hotel complex. Tomas was less worried and walked around town by himself at night. The Marina Park Hotel has an off menu restaurant, a buffet restaurant and two snack bars. I noticed that many Brazilian guests did not leave the hotel except on organised excursions.
At Sea 12-27 January 2008
27/01/08 21:23 Filed in: On Passage Mindelo to Fortaleza
Day 1 - Saturday 12th January 2008
I went ashore first thing to do a bit of last minute shopping and have a coffee.
Town Centre - Mindelo
Back on board we completed final preparations for sea and sailed at 12:00. The wind was gusting NE 28 knots as we cleared Mindelo harbour and proceeded under the main with 2 reefs and 2/3 yankee.
When we reached mid channel between Sao Vicente and Sao Antao a course of 226º m was set for Fortaleza. This bought the wind more or less dead astern and we started to roll. At 15:20 it became obvious that it was a waste of time having both sails up. I opted to drop the main and pole the full yankee out to starboard.
While this was going on we saw a whale surface about half a mile away.
Later in the afternoon we cleared the islands and the wind dropped to F4. We were still making 3.5 - 4 knots.
The night was clear with a crescent moon and we continued to roll heavily in a moderate swell.
Day 2 - Sunday 13th January 2008
No change in the rig and we were making our target speed of 4 knots. This was confirmed by a noon run of 107 miles. We seemed to be rolling a little less. Off watch we spent some time tracking down the various objects rolling about in lockers. We found quite a few which made for a quieter cabin.
At 18:30 a large tanker bound west passed astern. We had some light rain showers during the night.
Day 3 - Monday 14th January 2008
A problem developed with the Aries blade. It didn't seem to be seating home properly and popped out 3 times. The design is such that it can't come off, it just flips up and trails astern. In the early hours the wind was gusting 27 knots and it was necessary to heave to before re-seating the Aries blade. The Yankee was reefed 2/3 for the night and we passed two northbound ships.
Noon Run 122 miles.
Day 4 - Tuesday 15th January 2008
Strong winds gusting to 29 knots during a very dark night. We reefed down to 1/4 yankee but were still doing 4 knots. The Aries flipped up again but apart from this it is doing an excellent job steering the boat.
Attempted to pole out the staysail using the boom. Not a great success.
Noon Run 107.3 miles.
Day 5 - Wednesday 16th January 2008
Not a pleasant day. Strong winds continued but we made good progress under a reefed yankee. The swell increased and we rolled heavily.
Windspeed averaged 21 knots and the Aries blade flipped up again. We passed over the Gambia Abyssal depth 5600m.
The day closed with a big red sunset. Noon Run 110 miles.
Day 6 - Thursday 17th January 2008
The wind moderated during the day and by late afternoon be were back under full yankee. The weather was noticeably warmer, cabin temp 28º and water temp 26ºc. Was this the beginning of the doldrums? Boat motion has become much more comfortable.
Noon Run 105 miles.
Day 7 - Friday 18th January 2008
From a peak of 20 knots overnight the wind fell away to 11 knots at sunset.
This morning there were 14 small flying fish on deck.
The Yankee.
At 17:00 we passed this Japanese fishing boat. It had slowed to go alongside a marker buoy. At this point we were very much in mid atlantic.
Poling out arrangements for the yankee.
Our bananas were now getting very ripe and 3 oranges that had gone mouldy were thrown overboard..
Noon Run 93 miles.
Day 9 - Saturday 19th January 2008
A lovely moonlit night. The wind faded during the day and by evening with a slight sea and moderate swell we were doing only three knots. Attempted to pole out the main but due to shroud positioning it can get nowhere near 90º. The risk of chafe damage to the main did not justify a small increase in speed so took the main down.
At noon we passed a small marker buoy. Odd this far from land in such deep water.
We had almost run out of fresh vegetables but there was plenty of fruit left.
At 16:15 we passed the half way mark. 739 miles to go.
Noon Run 78.7 miles.
Day 9 - Sunday 20th January 2008
Very light winds overnight with boat speed often below 2 knots. We were still getting flying fish on deck each morning but only very small ones. We noticed that the gas pipe braiding had become very degraded due to repeated gimballing. The gimbal lock had also fallen apart.
It was getting hotter and more humid.
Noon Run 77.9 miles.
Day 10 - Monday 21st January 2008
Overnight the wind backed a bit and increased. The yankee was first sheeted then poled out to port.
The gas pipe had deteriorated further with the outer core splitting leaving only the inner core intact. That was that. The gas system was shut down. It will be cold food from now on.
The weather is overcast with a slight following sea and moderate swell. We were making good time.
Noon Run 94 miles.
Day 11 - Tuesday 22nd January 2008
A mixed day. Cloudy and raining in squalls at times followed by sunny humid conditions. The wind veered NE again so it was back to normal with the yankee poled out to starboard.
We had a visit from a very large school of dolphins.
Noon run 105 miles.
Day 12 - Wednesday 23rd January 2008
We had a series of squalls with heavy rain and winds gusting to 25 knots. The boat and crew had a good fresh water rinse.
The rivets holding the uphaul/downhaul bracket to our spinnaker pole failed. This pole was purchased only 18 months ago and has not been heavily used.
We were now able to receive Brazilian radio on MW.
Noon Run 94 miles.
Day 13 - Thursday 24th January 2008
Another mixed day with frequent squalls bringing heavy rain and high winds. The wind also veered to the east allowing us to run with full rig for most of the day.
The water leak in our new tank has not been cured, only slowed. However, water discipline has been good and we still have plenty left.
After a series of squalls around 20:00 we ended up becalmed for about an hour before the wind resumed.
We were almost at the equator.
Before crossing we were treated to a spectacular equatorial sunset.
Eventually we eased into the southern hemisphere at 21:09 sailing under the poled out yankee.
Noon Run 86 Miles.
Day 14 - Friday 25th January 2008
During the morning the wind veered to ESE. We took the pole in and proceeded under full main, yankee and staysail.
We were more or less on a broad reach with regular disturbances from passing squalls. Our anemometer had been behaving oddly as had our Raymarine C70 plotter.
After being stable for almost a week our Aries blade flipped up again.
Noon run 92 miles.
Day 15 - Saturday 26th January 2008
During the early hours the electrics continued to perform erratically. It was discovered that with our frequent spells of low wind the Superwind had not kept up with consumption and the house batteries had run quite low.
We ran the engine for three hours. The batteries were charged and all electrical equipment operated normally. We ran the engine for another hour later in the day when the wind dropped. Thereafter the wind returned and we made good progress under full main and yankee.
A bulk carrier passed ahead bound NW.
Noon Run 92 miles.
Day 16 - Sunday 27th January 2008
An excellent sail during the night. Land was sighted at 08:20.
At 10:00 we were off the commercial harbour sailing past the beaches to our marina.
Marina Park hotel from seaward.
Cathedral in the Centre of Fortaleza
Entering the marina.
Berthing at the Marina Park hotel was probably the most difficult berthing manoeuvre I have ever undertaken. One is required to enter the marina, choose an empty berth, drop anchor off the berth then reverse in to the pontoons and put two stern lines ashore.
Matters were complicated by 15-16 knots of wind blowing down the marina and two large mooring ropes extending well over halfway across the approach. I simply could not do it. The anchor was dropped and set quickly but when reversing into the berth the boat was quickly blown downwind.
Fortunately there were several other yachties present. One came out in his tender and took a line ashore. We had to bend three long warps together to reach the pontoon. That should have been it but the very long moorings referred to above fouled the keel and prevented us from winching the boat onto the pontoon. Back came the tender to act as a little tug and push us clear of the problematic moorings.
We were then able to winch Kiriwina onto the pontoons and make her fast. These were unlike any pontoons seen in Europe and prudence dictated that the boat be positioned 4-5 metres clear of the pontoons in 3m of water. We had 35 metres of anchor cable in the water.
Looking astern to the pontoons.
And ahead showing the opposite side of the marina and the anchor cable deployed.
We were all fast at 11:30 (UTC-1) and gained 2 hours as the clocks were adjusted to Brazilian time (UTC-3).
The crew after two weeks at sea.
All hands freshened up and went ashore for a hot Sunday lunch in agreeable surroundings.
Voyage time 14 days 23.5 hours. Distance 1478 miles. Average speed 4.11 knots.
I went ashore first thing to do a bit of last minute shopping and have a coffee.
Town Centre - Mindelo
Back on board we completed final preparations for sea and sailed at 12:00. The wind was gusting NE 28 knots as we cleared Mindelo harbour and proceeded under the main with 2 reefs and 2/3 yankee.
When we reached mid channel between Sao Vicente and Sao Antao a course of 226º m was set for Fortaleza. This bought the wind more or less dead astern and we started to roll. At 15:20 it became obvious that it was a waste of time having both sails up. I opted to drop the main and pole the full yankee out to starboard.
While this was going on we saw a whale surface about half a mile away.
Later in the afternoon we cleared the islands and the wind dropped to F4. We were still making 3.5 - 4 knots.
The night was clear with a crescent moon and we continued to roll heavily in a moderate swell.
Day 2 - Sunday 13th January 2008
No change in the rig and we were making our target speed of 4 knots. This was confirmed by a noon run of 107 miles. We seemed to be rolling a little less. Off watch we spent some time tracking down the various objects rolling about in lockers. We found quite a few which made for a quieter cabin.
At 18:30 a large tanker bound west passed astern. We had some light rain showers during the night.
Day 3 - Monday 14th January 2008
A problem developed with the Aries blade. It didn't seem to be seating home properly and popped out 3 times. The design is such that it can't come off, it just flips up and trails astern. In the early hours the wind was gusting 27 knots and it was necessary to heave to before re-seating the Aries blade. The Yankee was reefed 2/3 for the night and we passed two northbound ships.
Noon Run 122 miles.
Day 4 - Tuesday 15th January 2008
Strong winds gusting to 29 knots during a very dark night. We reefed down to 1/4 yankee but were still doing 4 knots. The Aries flipped up again but apart from this it is doing an excellent job steering the boat.
Attempted to pole out the staysail using the boom. Not a great success.
Noon Run 107.3 miles.
Day 5 - Wednesday 16th January 2008
Not a pleasant day. Strong winds continued but we made good progress under a reefed yankee. The swell increased and we rolled heavily.
Windspeed averaged 21 knots and the Aries blade flipped up again. We passed over the Gambia Abyssal depth 5600m.
The day closed with a big red sunset. Noon Run 110 miles.
Day 6 - Thursday 17th January 2008
The wind moderated during the day and by late afternoon be were back under full yankee. The weather was noticeably warmer, cabin temp 28º and water temp 26ºc. Was this the beginning of the doldrums? Boat motion has become much more comfortable.
Noon Run 105 miles.
Day 7 - Friday 18th January 2008
From a peak of 20 knots overnight the wind fell away to 11 knots at sunset.
This morning there were 14 small flying fish on deck.
The Yankee.
At 17:00 we passed this Japanese fishing boat. It had slowed to go alongside a marker buoy. At this point we were very much in mid atlantic.
Poling out arrangements for the yankee.
Our bananas were now getting very ripe and 3 oranges that had gone mouldy were thrown overboard..
Noon Run 93 miles.
Day 9 - Saturday 19th January 2008
A lovely moonlit night. The wind faded during the day and by evening with a slight sea and moderate swell we were doing only three knots. Attempted to pole out the main but due to shroud positioning it can get nowhere near 90º. The risk of chafe damage to the main did not justify a small increase in speed so took the main down.
At noon we passed a small marker buoy. Odd this far from land in such deep water.
We had almost run out of fresh vegetables but there was plenty of fruit left.
At 16:15 we passed the half way mark. 739 miles to go.
Noon Run 78.7 miles.
Day 9 - Sunday 20th January 2008
Very light winds overnight with boat speed often below 2 knots. We were still getting flying fish on deck each morning but only very small ones. We noticed that the gas pipe braiding had become very degraded due to repeated gimballing. The gimbal lock had also fallen apart.
It was getting hotter and more humid.
Noon Run 77.9 miles.
Day 10 - Monday 21st January 2008
Overnight the wind backed a bit and increased. The yankee was first sheeted then poled out to port.
The gas pipe had deteriorated further with the outer core splitting leaving only the inner core intact. That was that. The gas system was shut down. It will be cold food from now on.
The weather is overcast with a slight following sea and moderate swell. We were making good time.
Noon Run 94 miles.
Day 11 - Tuesday 22nd January 2008
A mixed day. Cloudy and raining in squalls at times followed by sunny humid conditions. The wind veered NE again so it was back to normal with the yankee poled out to starboard.
We had a visit from a very large school of dolphins.
Noon run 105 miles.
Day 12 - Wednesday 23rd January 2008
We had a series of squalls with heavy rain and winds gusting to 25 knots. The boat and crew had a good fresh water rinse.
The rivets holding the uphaul/downhaul bracket to our spinnaker pole failed. This pole was purchased only 18 months ago and has not been heavily used.
We were now able to receive Brazilian radio on MW.
Noon Run 94 miles.
Day 13 - Thursday 24th January 2008
Another mixed day with frequent squalls bringing heavy rain and high winds. The wind also veered to the east allowing us to run with full rig for most of the day.
The water leak in our new tank has not been cured, only slowed. However, water discipline has been good and we still have plenty left.
After a series of squalls around 20:00 we ended up becalmed for about an hour before the wind resumed.
We were almost at the equator.
Before crossing we were treated to a spectacular equatorial sunset.
Eventually we eased into the southern hemisphere at 21:09 sailing under the poled out yankee.
Noon Run 86 Miles.
Day 14 - Friday 25th January 2008
During the morning the wind veered to ESE. We took the pole in and proceeded under full main, yankee and staysail.
We were more or less on a broad reach with regular disturbances from passing squalls. Our anemometer had been behaving oddly as had our Raymarine C70 plotter.
After being stable for almost a week our Aries blade flipped up again.
Noon run 92 miles.
Day 15 - Saturday 26th January 2008
During the early hours the electrics continued to perform erratically. It was discovered that with our frequent spells of low wind the Superwind had not kept up with consumption and the house batteries had run quite low.
We ran the engine for three hours. The batteries were charged and all electrical equipment operated normally. We ran the engine for another hour later in the day when the wind dropped. Thereafter the wind returned and we made good progress under full main and yankee.
A bulk carrier passed ahead bound NW.
Noon Run 92 miles.
Day 16 - Sunday 27th January 2008
An excellent sail during the night. Land was sighted at 08:20.
At 10:00 we were off the commercial harbour sailing past the beaches to our marina.
Marina Park hotel from seaward.
Cathedral in the Centre of Fortaleza
Entering the marina.
Berthing at the Marina Park hotel was probably the most difficult berthing manoeuvre I have ever undertaken. One is required to enter the marina, choose an empty berth, drop anchor off the berth then reverse in to the pontoons and put two stern lines ashore.
Matters were complicated by 15-16 knots of wind blowing down the marina and two large mooring ropes extending well over halfway across the approach. I simply could not do it. The anchor was dropped and set quickly but when reversing into the berth the boat was quickly blown downwind.
Fortunately there were several other yachties present. One came out in his tender and took a line ashore. We had to bend three long warps together to reach the pontoon. That should have been it but the very long moorings referred to above fouled the keel and prevented us from winching the boat onto the pontoon. Back came the tender to act as a little tug and push us clear of the problematic moorings.
We were then able to winch Kiriwina onto the pontoons and make her fast. These were unlike any pontoons seen in Europe and prudence dictated that the boat be positioned 4-5 metres clear of the pontoons in 3m of water. We had 35 metres of anchor cable in the water.
Looking astern to the pontoons.
And ahead showing the opposite side of the marina and the anchor cable deployed.
We were all fast at 11:30 (UTC-1) and gained 2 hours as the clocks were adjusted to Brazilian time (UTC-3).
The crew after two weeks at sea.
All hands freshened up and went ashore for a hot Sunday lunch in agreeable surroundings.
Voyage time 14 days 23.5 hours. Distance 1478 miles. Average speed 4.11 knots.
Mindelo
11/01/08 18:09 Filed in: Ilha de Sao Vicente | Cape Verdes
Our last day in Mindelo and the Cape Verdes.
In the 24 hours before departure we have to complete two formalities. The first is to visit the DGP port police and clear Kiriwina out. I arrived at 10:15 and waited at reception while an officer went upstairs to get our SSR certificate. Then I went to the treasury office in another part of the building where an invoice for Esc 500 was raised and a clearance certificate produced. A guide was helpfully provided to escort me round the building.
My guide then took me to the accounts office where I paid the invoice. Finally we returned to reception where a note was made in a clearance ledger and we were done.
The second formality was to have exit stamps put in our passports. I arrived at 10:45 and was told the officer was not there and to come back at 12:00. I did and he still wasn't there. I was told to return at 14:00. I did and he still wasn't there. I was told to come back at 15:00. I decided to wait and he showed up at 14:30. Passports stamped. Formalities complete
I climbed the mast to check both foresail halyards and wash things as best I could.. The yankee halyard was fine but the staysail halyard shows signs of chafe from the furling gear and will need to be watched. As with the running rigging everything was coated with a salt/reddish dust paste.
Kiriwina on her berth at Mindelo.
We stocked up with fresh fruit, eggs and vegetables and topped up the fresh water tanks. My repair of yesterday, to the centre water tank, seems to have held. Total fresh water used 160 litres.
Dame Kiri had her chafe protection replaced and all the running gear that had been removed for cleaning was re-rigged. We were ready to go.
Later we had a very nice meal at Cafe Mindelo and Tomas never got his knife back.
In the 24 hours before departure we have to complete two formalities. The first is to visit the DGP port police and clear Kiriwina out. I arrived at 10:15 and waited at reception while an officer went upstairs to get our SSR certificate. Then I went to the treasury office in another part of the building where an invoice for Esc 500 was raised and a clearance certificate produced. A guide was helpfully provided to escort me round the building.
My guide then took me to the accounts office where I paid the invoice. Finally we returned to reception where a note was made in a clearance ledger and we were done.
The second formality was to have exit stamps put in our passports. I arrived at 10:45 and was told the officer was not there and to come back at 12:00. I did and he still wasn't there. I was told to return at 14:00. I did and he still wasn't there. I was told to come back at 15:00. I decided to wait and he showed up at 14:30. Passports stamped. Formalities complete
I climbed the mast to check both foresail halyards and wash things as best I could.. The yankee halyard was fine but the staysail halyard shows signs of chafe from the furling gear and will need to be watched. As with the running rigging everything was coated with a salt/reddish dust paste.
Kiriwina on her berth at Mindelo.
We stocked up with fresh fruit, eggs and vegetables and topped up the fresh water tanks. My repair of yesterday, to the centre water tank, seems to have held. Total fresh water used 160 litres.
Dame Kiri had her chafe protection replaced and all the running gear that had been removed for cleaning was re-rigged. We were ready to go.
Later we had a very nice meal at Cafe Mindelo and Tomas never got his knife back.
Mindelo
10/01/08 20:59 Filed in: Ilha de Sao Vicente | Cape Verdes
Water is scarce on Mindelo and supplies at the marina are metered and cost Esc 2.00 per litre.
Before topping up with fresh water I checked the bilge. Normally it contains a small amount of water at the bottom but now it was about 2/3 full with fresh water. The source of this water turned out to be the newest of our three under floor flexible storage tanks. This had been purchased in May 2006
It was a small leak at the corner or one seam. Over 9 days about half the contents had leaked into the bilge. Fortunately this tank is isolated from the other two or all our fresh water could have leaked out over time.
I dried it out as much as possible and attempted a repair with inflatable boat adhesive.
Running rigging that had not been removed earlier was taken down, washed in salt water then rinsed in fresh. Using buckets of fresh water we washed as much of the boat as possible. The amount of dust and salt we had picked up on route was amazing and a new layer of fine dust was a being added in Mindelo.
Total fresh water used was 130 litres.
Before topping up with fresh water I checked the bilge. Normally it contains a small amount of water at the bottom but now it was about 2/3 full with fresh water. The source of this water turned out to be the newest of our three under floor flexible storage tanks. This had been purchased in May 2006
It was a small leak at the corner or one seam. Over 9 days about half the contents had leaked into the bilge. Fortunately this tank is isolated from the other two or all our fresh water could have leaked out over time.
I dried it out as much as possible and attempted a repair with inflatable boat adhesive.
Running rigging that had not been removed earlier was taken down, washed in salt water then rinsed in fresh. Using buckets of fresh water we washed as much of the boat as possible. The amount of dust and salt we had picked up on route was amazing and a new layer of fine dust was a being added in Mindelo.
Total fresh water used was 130 litres.
Ilha do Santo Antão
09/01/08 16:00 Filed in: Cape Verdes
Last night we met up with some fellow yachties in the Club Nautico and arranged to do a day tour of a nearby island, Santo Antão.
Our Armas ferry was due to leave at 08:00. At 07:50 they hoisted the gangway aboard and Tomas and I got caught between the crew who told us to board via the car deck and a dock policeman who said we couldn't board. Eventually the policeman was over-ruled by his superior and we boarded via the car deck.
On board we met Martin and Roma from "Apple", Jeff from "Sierra" and Melanie and Kass from "Cooya". The trip across took a bit over an hour with a one way ticket costing Esc 700 (€1=Esc110). At the arrival dock in Porto Novo we hired a mini bus with driver for the day.
First stop was to book our return passage. The afternoon ferry sailing had been cancelled. Fortunately the competing fast hydrofoil had an afternoon sailing at a cost of Esc 600.
Our tour covered only the northern portion of Santo Antão. The south is sparsely populated and mainly barren. All the roads we travelled were cobbled and the engineering was impressive. This part of the island included a large steep sided volcanic crater with the northen side open to the sea.
There are few private cars. Locals walk or catch Aluguer hire vehicles.
We started in Porto Novo. The road goes north and climbs to about 1800m where it skirts a crater rim and then winds down steep valley walls to Porta do Sol on the north coast. The valley walls are extensively terraced to maximise crop production and are accessed by an amazing network of paths.
Once over the central ridge the island changes from near desert to lush fertile valleys.
The way down to Porta do Sol.
Public art in Porta do Sol. We stopped here for lunch. Our driver chose a very expensive restaurant which we declined. Jeff stuck his head in a doorway and discovered a little cafe where we were very well fed at a modest cost.
After lunch we drove round the north coast to the valley of Ribeira do Paul passing through this village en route.
Ribeira do Paul is jaw droppingly stunning. A steepside lush fertile valley with small villages and charming stone thatched cottages. The scale is immense and these photos in no way do it justice.
School was coming out as we passed through.
We got about halfway along the valley before it was time to turn back.
All poultry is free range here.
A pebble beach on the north coast.
Porto Novo harbour and our fast hydrofoil back. It would not be safe to leave a yacht unattended here.
The hydrofoil in Mindelo harbour.
Martin and Roma with their boat "Apple". Mindelo harbour.
Our Armas ferry was due to leave at 08:00. At 07:50 they hoisted the gangway aboard and Tomas and I got caught between the crew who told us to board via the car deck and a dock policeman who said we couldn't board. Eventually the policeman was over-ruled by his superior and we boarded via the car deck.
On board we met Martin and Roma from "Apple", Jeff from "Sierra" and Melanie and Kass from "Cooya". The trip across took a bit over an hour with a one way ticket costing Esc 700 (€1=Esc110). At the arrival dock in Porto Novo we hired a mini bus with driver for the day.
First stop was to book our return passage. The afternoon ferry sailing had been cancelled. Fortunately the competing fast hydrofoil had an afternoon sailing at a cost of Esc 600.
Our tour covered only the northern portion of Santo Antão. The south is sparsely populated and mainly barren. All the roads we travelled were cobbled and the engineering was impressive. This part of the island included a large steep sided volcanic crater with the northen side open to the sea.
There are few private cars. Locals walk or catch Aluguer hire vehicles.
We started in Porto Novo. The road goes north and climbs to about 1800m where it skirts a crater rim and then winds down steep valley walls to Porta do Sol on the north coast. The valley walls are extensively terraced to maximise crop production and are accessed by an amazing network of paths.
Once over the central ridge the island changes from near desert to lush fertile valleys.
The way down to Porta do Sol.
Public art in Porta do Sol. We stopped here for lunch. Our driver chose a very expensive restaurant which we declined. Jeff stuck his head in a doorway and discovered a little cafe where we were very well fed at a modest cost.
After lunch we drove round the north coast to the valley of Ribeira do Paul passing through this village en route.
Ribeira do Paul is jaw droppingly stunning. A steepside lush fertile valley with small villages and charming stone thatched cottages. The scale is immense and these photos in no way do it justice.
School was coming out as we passed through.
We got about halfway along the valley before it was time to turn back.
All poultry is free range here.
A pebble beach on the north coast.
Porto Novo harbour and our fast hydrofoil back. It would not be safe to leave a yacht unattended here.
The hydrofoil in Mindelo harbour.
Martin and Roma with their boat "Apple". Mindelo harbour.
Mindelo
08/01/08 20:56 Filed in: Ilha de Sao Vicente | Cape Verdes
There is not a lot in the way of visitor attractions on Sao Vicente.
Mindelo is a sleepy little place where it easy easy to pass a few relaxing days without doing anything very much. This is what we did.
We found the people here very friendly and helpful and apart from the odd beggar there was a total absence of hustlers. The streets were clean and with a bit of searching we found most things we needed. The hardware stores, of which there were several, were particularly useful.
Most evenings it was possible to eat in a bar or restaurant featuring live music.
We removed the main halyard and both sets of foresail sheets for cleaning. They were heavily encrusted with salt and reddish dust. We found that soaking in seawater for a while followed by several seawater rinses removed most of the dirt. There was no fresh water available today but when it is everything will get a final fresh water rinse.
Mindelo Marina is quite a large new complex with the pontoons anchored with chains rather than piles. Movement on the marina is quite uncomfortable with lines snatching and jerking the boat about. The motion of boats in the marina is much more pronounced than with those at anchor. It is however very secure and the dinghy park for boats at anchor is well used.
Several yachties I spoke to thought that when filled with boats one or more of the pontoons would have a good chance of breaking away. During our stay there was often 15-20 knots of wind blowing off the hills down over the marina.
Mindelo Marina reception area with the town centre beyond.
A new leisure complex under construction just west of the marina.
Looking east across new unoccupied pontoons.
A view south towards the pontoons for larger boats.
Our pontoon with bow to moorings on one side and stern to on the other.
Two views of the anchorage.
Mindelo is a sleepy little place where it easy easy to pass a few relaxing days without doing anything very much. This is what we did.
We found the people here very friendly and helpful and apart from the odd beggar there was a total absence of hustlers. The streets were clean and with a bit of searching we found most things we needed. The hardware stores, of which there were several, were particularly useful.
Most evenings it was possible to eat in a bar or restaurant featuring live music.
We removed the main halyard and both sets of foresail sheets for cleaning. They were heavily encrusted with salt and reddish dust. We found that soaking in seawater for a while followed by several seawater rinses removed most of the dirt. There was no fresh water available today but when it is everything will get a final fresh water rinse.
Mindelo Marina is quite a large new complex with the pontoons anchored with chains rather than piles. Movement on the marina is quite uncomfortable with lines snatching and jerking the boat about. The motion of boats in the marina is much more pronounced than with those at anchor. It is however very secure and the dinghy park for boats at anchor is well used.
Several yachties I spoke to thought that when filled with boats one or more of the pontoons would have a good chance of breaking away. During our stay there was often 15-20 knots of wind blowing off the hills down over the marina.
Mindelo Marina reception area with the town centre beyond.
A new leisure complex under construction just west of the marina.
Looking east across new unoccupied pontoons.
A view south towards the pontoons for larger boats.
Our pontoon with bow to moorings on one side and stern to on the other.
Two views of the anchorage.
Mindelo
05/01/08 20:30 Filed in: Ilha de Sao Vicente | Cape Verdes
This anchorage is very calm. We enjoyed a very restful night.
Our excitement for the day started with Tomas having a dish washing malfunction which resulted in our only pressure cooker gasket going over the side along with the dishwater. To his very great credit an my amazement Tomas donned fins and mask, jumped overboard and 20 minutes later retrieved the gasket.
Kiriwina at anchor in Mindelo harbour. Ilha de Santo Antão is in the background and an old fort is at centre right.
We deployed "Kiriwini" and went ashore to see if the marina was operational. It was but only partially. We would have electricity and a "bows to" mooring but no water showers or toilets. This for €12.50. We returned to the boat and moved into the marina. Walking out the gate to get a cool drink at the Club Nautico our first hustle started in 6 seconds. Fortunately it was also our last apart from some unenthusiastic begging.
Back on board and tidying up Kiriwina was filthy with salt and dust. The marineros offer boat cleaning services but quite how they do this without water was not clear.
Later we went ashore. Mindelo seems a pleasant enough place. It was unthreatening and reminded me more of the poorer parts of southern europe 30 years ago rather than Africa. We got cash from a bank machine and found a place where we could eat, check our e-mail and listen to live music.
Tomas reckoned his knife was picked from his backpack by a couple of children on the way back to the boat. I'm not totally convinced but he is going to try and find them and buy it back.
Our excitement for the day started with Tomas having a dish washing malfunction which resulted in our only pressure cooker gasket going over the side along with the dishwater. To his very great credit an my amazement Tomas donned fins and mask, jumped overboard and 20 minutes later retrieved the gasket.
Kiriwina at anchor in Mindelo harbour. Ilha de Santo Antão is in the background and an old fort is at centre right.
We deployed "Kiriwini" and went ashore to see if the marina was operational. It was but only partially. We would have electricity and a "bows to" mooring but no water showers or toilets. This for €12.50. We returned to the boat and moved into the marina. Walking out the gate to get a cool drink at the Club Nautico our first hustle started in 6 seconds. Fortunately it was also our last apart from some unenthusiastic begging.
Back on board and tidying up Kiriwina was filthy with salt and dust. The marineros offer boat cleaning services but quite how they do this without water was not clear.
Later we went ashore. Mindelo seems a pleasant enough place. It was unthreatening and reminded me more of the poorer parts of southern europe 30 years ago rather than Africa. We got cash from a bank machine and found a place where we could eat, check our e-mail and listen to live music.
Tomas reckoned his knife was picked from his backpack by a couple of children on the way back to the boat. I'm not totally convinced but he is going to try and find them and buy it back.
At Sea 1-4 January 2008
1 January 2008
Up until now we had experienced mostly sunny weather. Today it became overcast and cooler. I was wearing pretty much the same kit I would wear sailing in April/May in the English channel.
The wind continued to average 20kn from ENE but the seas moderated somewhat. We were able to tune in to Radio Austria International for part of the new years day concert from Vienna. We were doing around 5 knots over the ground with full staysail and 2 reefs in the main. With the wind on our port quarter or even further astern we rolled a lot.
If current speed is maintained we could reach Mindelo on Friday.
2 January 2008
By now we had traced most of the many locker rattles and were experiencing a much quieter cabin and better sleep as a result.
Another grey miserable day but our good progress continued. Sometimes we felt rain drops but nothing that could be called rain developed. Mindelo on friday is now looking very promising.
Generally Kiriwina has a very dry cockpit but on this point of sail with the weather stern we occasional get a bucket or two in the cockpit. Nothing serious but bracing if caught without a high collar. Down below we are completely dry.
The wind continued at ENE F5-6, about one beaufort level higher than forecast.
Day's run at noon 116 miles with 253 miles to go.
3 January 2008
In the early hours we ran under main only (2 reefs) with the wind gusting to 30 knots. Later usual service of F5-6 resumed.
A large swell with the crest breaking astern of us.
During the afternoon patches of blue sky appeared. Some stars were visible at night but not to the extent seen on the first few nights.
134 miles to go at noon.
4th January 2008
During the early morning watch I was able to pick up Cape Verde FM radio which cheered things up a bit. The wind was now almost astern and we had the main well out to starboard on a preventer.
During the morning we had our first flying fish. Far too small to be of any use but evidence of our nearing tropical waters.
A high point on Ilha de San Antao was sighted at 08:40.
We entered the channel between Ilha de San Antao and Ilha de Sao Vicente at 12:00. The wind was now around ENE 25kn but the reported acceleration (40-50kn) in the channel did not happen.
Ilha dos Passaros was left to starboard at 14:40 and at 15:35 we rounded Pontoa do Cais into Mindelo harbour.
Ilha dos Passaros
Boat CV, the marina operator at Mindelo did not respond to VHF calls (they don't have a VHF), nor did they respond to attempts to phone (their listed number had been disconnected). We motored over to the pontoons but with no sign of any staff and mooring arrangements unclear we decided to anchor. So much for german efficiency (the owner is german) but then, TIA.
We finally anchored at 16:20 in 4.4 metres of water and veered 30 metres of chain. Winds across the harbour gusted to 20 knots over a short fetch but there was little movement. Tomas cooked a nice meal after which we turned in early and slept for almost 12 hours.
Total passage 805.9 miles in 7 days 3.6 hours.
Up until now we had experienced mostly sunny weather. Today it became overcast and cooler. I was wearing pretty much the same kit I would wear sailing in April/May in the English channel.
The wind continued to average 20kn from ENE but the seas moderated somewhat. We were able to tune in to Radio Austria International for part of the new years day concert from Vienna. We were doing around 5 knots over the ground with full staysail and 2 reefs in the main. With the wind on our port quarter or even further astern we rolled a lot.
If current speed is maintained we could reach Mindelo on Friday.
2 January 2008
By now we had traced most of the many locker rattles and were experiencing a much quieter cabin and better sleep as a result.
Another grey miserable day but our good progress continued. Sometimes we felt rain drops but nothing that could be called rain developed. Mindelo on friday is now looking very promising.
Generally Kiriwina has a very dry cockpit but on this point of sail with the weather stern we occasional get a bucket or two in the cockpit. Nothing serious but bracing if caught without a high collar. Down below we are completely dry.
The wind continued at ENE F5-6, about one beaufort level higher than forecast.
Day's run at noon 116 miles with 253 miles to go.
3 January 2008
In the early hours we ran under main only (2 reefs) with the wind gusting to 30 knots. Later usual service of F5-6 resumed.
A large swell with the crest breaking astern of us.
During the afternoon patches of blue sky appeared. Some stars were visible at night but not to the extent seen on the first few nights.
134 miles to go at noon.
4th January 2008
During the early morning watch I was able to pick up Cape Verde FM radio which cheered things up a bit. The wind was now almost astern and we had the main well out to starboard on a preventer.
During the morning we had our first flying fish. Far too small to be of any use but evidence of our nearing tropical waters.
A high point on Ilha de San Antao was sighted at 08:40.
We entered the channel between Ilha de San Antao and Ilha de Sao Vicente at 12:00. The wind was now around ENE 25kn but the reported acceleration (40-50kn) in the channel did not happen.
Ilha dos Passaros was left to starboard at 14:40 and at 15:35 we rounded Pontoa do Cais into Mindelo harbour.
Ilha dos Passaros
Boat CV, the marina operator at Mindelo did not respond to VHF calls (they don't have a VHF), nor did they respond to attempts to phone (their listed number had been disconnected). We motored over to the pontoons but with no sign of any staff and mooring arrangements unclear we decided to anchor. So much for german efficiency (the owner is german) but then, TIA.
We finally anchored at 16:20 in 4.4 metres of water and veered 30 metres of chain. Winds across the harbour gusted to 20 knots over a short fetch but there was little movement. Tomas cooked a nice meal after which we turned in early and slept for almost 12 hours.
Total passage 805.9 miles in 7 days 3.6 hours.